Gonzo Bic Pen Travelling Tattoo Cowboy Man

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Happy Hour in Wyoming was just confirmation that pretty much all there is to do in Wyoming is drink or wander around the mountains. During winter, Wyomingites tend to turn more toward the booze than the great outdoors, unless they are off snow-mobiling, hunting or ice-fishing… come to think of it, booze are involved in these activities as well, so winter basically just equals booze.

Friday happy hour was the most celebrated, and at a time in my life where I found myself limited on friends, I thought I might find at least a short conversation or two down at what was, pretty much, the only bar in Lander, the Lander Bar.
It was late October, and the weather was what Texans would consider to be completely inhospitable, but for Wyomingites meant we started to throw an extra layer or two on. I ordered a burger and a beer as soon as I walked into the crowded bar and sat at a wooden table. Eating and drinking, I watched as the crowd mingled when I saw a man at a high top table with a wool vest, bright red wild rag and a little red healer dog labeled ‘service animal’  at his feet. He was seated with his long hair spilling from beneath his cowboy hat to his shoulders as he hunched over, sketching the cover image of a Western Horseman magazine of a man on a bucking horse.

I thought, “I bet this guy could tell some stories.”

He just sat there quietly  working on his sketch while his dog lay asleep at the base of his stool. I finished my burger and hauled by beer to the back patio for a cigarette. We had a pretty nice little snow and it seemed to suit the beer choice I had made. The stranger artist strolled up with his dog and as he got his cigarette lit, I said to him, “Hey man, those are some cool boots.”

He looked over, somewhat noncommittally and said, “Thanks, got ’em in San Angelo, from a place called Leddy’s.”
M.L. Leddy’s is one of the finest boot makers in the country, and for a rather homeless looking cowboy artist to own a pair, as well as have what I had just recently noticed to be a total of about 4 teeth, was surprising, yet intriguing.

“No shit!” I replied, “I’m from a place near San Angelo and I had a pair of ML Leddy’s too, until a dog ate ’em, by the way I like your dog!”

He introduced himself as Austin, then to his dog, Delilah, who wasn’t really a service animal he told me, he said he’s just been in jail less often since he put that “service dog” badge on her, with no further details. He told me he was a traveling artist, mainly based out of Colorado and invited me over to his table to show off his artwork, which I accepted. His sketch work was all very Western, mostly livestock imagery or portraits, a lot of them were of the bar scenes that he was sitting at and observing. He sat at bars to solicit interest from nosy passers like me who have literally no filter as to who they will and will not speak with. Austin would engage people like me in conversation with a practiced heir of odd stories while asking for beer in a sort of panhandler kind of way. “I’m low on cash, gotta pay my phone bill, couldya buy me a beer or two?” He drew with a Bic pen and was like an alcoholic cowboy savant, he could take one look at the entire room and draw it to almost perfect detail. He even showed off a bar scene that had been framed atop the liquor shelf in the Lander Bar from a few years back.
“So how long have you been in Lander?” I asked, as there was practically a siren that goes off when a newcomer arrives in town, everyone knows within a few days.

“Oh, I just pulled in today, from Aspen, I lived there on and off for about 15 years, most of that time I lived in a cabin behind Hunter S. Thompson’s place — I had a tattoo shop but I also traveled a lot to do murals and stuff. I was an orphan so I got used to moving around, but everywhere I go I do my sketches and tattoo work.”

A few beers and whiskys in, he dove deeper into his history, and I started to call bullshit on him. He told me how he’d been ambushed at Little Annies bar and restaurant in Aspen by Hunter who walked straight up to him and asked, “Hey man, what does Gonzo-ism mean to you?”

Austin said he looked him straight in the eye, without a pause and said “Gonz-oism is a euphemism for truth-ism in real time.” Which, for a slightly buzzed, Thompson fanatic like myself, I thought sounded fucking brilliant and fucking crazy at the same time.

“Hunter smiled, slapped my back, and yelled ‘You’re the smartest mother fucker in this bar!'” and went on and on telling bizarre stories about yachting with Jimmy Buffett, partying with Jerry Jeff Walker and god only knows what other tall tales he had in his pockets. In-between these Rolling Stones fables he showed me his portfolio of tattoo and sketch work. All very brilliant, from life-like portraits to abstracts with lovely detail in all medium. As I had had enough to drink, I said goodbye to my strange new acquaintance, to which he asked for another beer and then handed me a business card before I could get out the door.

The next day, I was riding horses with a friend of mine, I told her all about the Gonzo, Bic pen, tattoo artist, drifting cowboy character I met and with words that felt as foreign as they sounded I said, “I think I’m gonna get a tattoo done by him.”

I had never really wanted a tattoo, I always said if it was the right design and the right time, I’d consider one, but it wasn’t a milestone I was pining for- and didn’t want a cliche tattoo done by a judgmental artist at a downtown tat shop on a wild Friday night. I thought, “Hell, If I’m gonna have a tattoo, at least it’ll have a funny story with it…”

I called Austin as soon as I was done riding, he answered hurriedly and I had to remind him who I was, “Meredith, you know, the girl who bought you beers for like three hours last night? Well I was wondering if you would be willing to do a tattoo for me?”

“HELL YEAH I’LL DO A TAT FOR YOU! Meet me at the B’n’B at three and we’ll come up with a design.”

The B’nB was the “smokey bar” in Lander, only true drunks and shadowy figures trickle in and  out of it, but I always really liked it. Over the phone I had mentioned the design I was interested in, I told him it was the Desert Rose concho design and as I found him seated with an already cascading ash tray, he was slaving away at what looked like the tackiest ‘desert rose’ design I had ever seen. Horrified at what some might find attractive, I showed him the design I had in mind and he reluctantly agreed to recreate the concho that I showed him. It was a design I had seen on a pair of chinks, which are a type of western riding chaps– and I liked the idea of a rose in the desert. To me it was a symbol for my two homes, West Texas and Western Wyoming.

We left the smokey bar and went to Austin’s car to find his tattoo equipment. His Car was a seventy-something yellow Volvo– although the primary colors of it seemed to be rust and dirt. We pulled through all of Austin’s belongings- most of which were items like clothes, deer skins, raccoon hats, cans, dog food, cigarette butts, canvases, portfolios, and all kinds of books… we dug through every inch of that Volvo and seriously the last thing we found was his tattoo equipment. After this three hour search through weirdo Narnia, I was just glad it was over and that I didn’t come across any weird porn, or something illegal. I drove us to my house, which was the attic section of an old blue house, and Austin got to work setting up his needles and ink. The needle he used was from a fresh container — air sealed and never used, so don’t worry, although his appearance may say otherwise, Austin was very professional and clean. He drew out my design on my left wrist and we were ready to rock and roll.

“Shit! The one thing I forgot to get was alcohol to clean your arm while I ink!”

“I’ve got a handle of whisky, will that work?” I said, in desperation to just get this over with.

“Hell Yah!”

With the first jab of the needle, it hit me that this was seriously happening. That Hobo McGee was tattooing me, in my living room, with my favorite whisky, Pendelton… I then took a giant pull from the whisky bottle, bit my shoulder and before I knew it, the tat was done! Austin began to roll a joint as I handed him a few 20 dollar bills a pack of Marlboro lights, and a six pack of Coors Lites in exchange for the tattoo. I dropped him off back at the B’n’B, and he commenced once again, doing what he does best, sit at bars, sketch, and bum anything and everything possible from the people around him, but he sure made some bad ass art and I got my permanent weird story out of it.

* Above pictured is the desert rose concho design

Gonzo Bic Pen Travelling Tattoo Cowboy Man